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One other reason would be is if the needle were bad and needed to be replaced, and in this case, that happened. The Keihin CV40 was introduced in 1988 on the XL models, however did not originally have an accelerator pump. Remove your jets using a good screwdriver, and the appropriate size. Remove everyting, including the main jet, pilot jet, emulsion tube (main jet scews into it) and the diaphram and associated parts. It adds fuel, not cuts off air the supply (butterfly) making the mixture richer. If you see this, regardless of being only one side, then replace it. 1971-2012 "Your Jedi Mind tricks will not work on me...... I used an XL needle for this build as it works well with giving good midrange fuel with no bog. 1971-2012 "Your Jedi Mind tricks will not work on me...... GENTLY tighten the plastic nut back into the carb housing.

) Tools needed will be: 1.) Medium straight blade screwdriver 2.) Medium phillips screwdriver 3.) Small straight blade screw driver 4.) 8mm wrench 5.) pick 6.) can carb cleaner (2 2 is my favorite flavor) 7.) Thread lock red (For fuel elbow replacement only.) 8.) 9/16" wrench 9.) fuel elbow removal tool, or a vice, if replacing the fuel elbow. Classic S&S 510 cams Baisley Oil pump spring CYCO tensioners V&H Fuelpak SE 3.5" pipes K&N filter Fueling lifters S&S adj pushrods Swingarm stabilizer Disassemble your carb, piece by piece, laying your parts out on a clean, open working area. Classic S&S 510 cams Baisley Oil pump spring CYCO tensioners V&H Fuelpak SE 3.5" pipes K&N filter Fueling lifters S&S adj pushrods Swingarm stabilizer One thing you may want to do, is to remove the air fuel mixture screw, and clean and inspect the tip. It is removed by turning the plastic 9/16" nut that threads into the carb body. Classic S&S 510 cams Baisley Oil pump spring CYCO tensioners V&H Fuelpak SE 3.5" pipes K&N filter Fueling lifters S&S adj pushrods Swingarm stabilizer Once the carb body and bowl are cleaned and polished, and the carb throat is polished, I'm ready to reassemble.

If not, you can strip them (Brass is soft) and then you have issues. Clean the body and bowl with carb cleaner and a tooth brush. Afterwards, I have a polishing process I developed, that's fast and efficient, making the carb look like new again. Make sure to clean the enrichener port out well with carb cleaner, and clean the pintle well, also. There's a small o-ring in between the cover and the carb bowl that needs to be replaced when removed. The emulsion tube, main jet, pilot jet, needle and float are replaced. Classic S&S 510 cams Baisley Oil pump spring CYCO tensioners V&H Fuelpak SE 3.5" pipes K&N filter Fueling lifters S&S adj pushrods Swingarm stabilizer Replace the slide and diaphram. If your engine is stock, install the needle (XL PT# 27094-88). cammed engines, I use a .050" shim under the needle to add just a touch more fuel. I generally set the air/fuel screw 2 turns out to start.

Not the larger one is the MAIN JET still screwed into the EMULSION TUBE. __________________________________________ When the going gets weird, the weird turn professional.... __________________________________________ When the going gets weird, the weird turn professional.... __________________________________________ When the going gets weird, the weird turn professional.... Keep in mind, when removing the float pin, THE PIN IS REMOVED FROM THE LEFT TO THE RIGHT, IF THE PIN TOWERS ARE FACING YOU AND THE FLOAT IS FACING AWAY FROM YOU. 1971-2012 "Your Jedi Mind tricks will not work on me...... I polish the slide, and bevel the leading edge for better air flow. As the cover is placed on it, you can push the rubber end back into the groove with a small screwdriver. Can be seen in throat, into main housing: You can either install a Dyno Jet spring which is shorter and a lighter spring rate, (8.8 onces for 3" compression and 5" long VS stock which is 12.5 onces for 3" compression and 5.5" long) a stock spring, or take a stock spring, cut off 3 rings from it, and your slide will react faster, giving similar results as the Dyno Jet spring. This carb is set up for a Big Twin, with a 190 main, an XL needle shimmed .050", a 48 Pilot jet, new accel pump diaphram and a stock diaphram spring, and no drilled slide air-bleed hole.

If you try to force it the other way, you'll break a tower and the carb is now JUNK. Make sure on reinstall, the lip of the diaphram fits into the upper housing groove, or you'll tear it and it'll leak. As the lip seats, you'll see the cover meet the carb housing. Now that all your parts are inside the top of the carb, the cover can go back on, sa can the right side cable cradle. This is your completed carb: __________________________________________ When the going gets weird, the weird turn professional....

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